- Hold the steering wheel firmly.
- If this happens before entering a turn, try to control the direction first.
- Then try to slow down: shift down gears step by step to slow down.
- Use the handbrake/emergency brake to stop the car if the speed is below 20 mph.
- Turn on your hazard lights if applicable.
- Use upward slopes or hills to help stop the car.
- If your brakes stop working when going up a hill, shift quickly to lower gear, then use the handbrake/emergency brake to park the car.
- If available, park in an emergency parking lane, or hard shoulder. If not, then park away from fast traffic and ensure your hazard lights are turned on.
How to avoid it:
- Test brakes before your trip.
- Always test your brakes when you first start down a steep hill or if you have driven through deep water.
FIND A DEALER
FAQ
Read our Frequently Asked Questions.
Stay calm and grip the wheel firmly.
Pump the brakes rapidly—if you have a conventional braking system, rapid pumping can restore some pressure.
Downshift to a lower gear immediately to use engine braking to slow the vehicle.
Apply the parking/handbrake gradually and gently—applying it suddenly at speed can cause a spin.
Use roadside features if necessary: guardrails, gravel runoff areas, or uphill grades all help slow the vehicle.
Turn off the engine only as a last resort—this removes power steering as well.
Steer toward a safe stopping area: a soft embankment, bushes, or an emergency runaway truck ramp if available.
Brake fade is the reduction in braking effectiveness that occurs when brakes overheat—most commonly during prolonged braking on steep descents. Heat builds in the rotors and brake fluid, reducing friction and hydraulic pressure. Prevention: on long downhill grades, use engine braking (select a lower gear) instead of riding the brakes continuously. Test your brakes at the top of any steep descent before committing to the grade. Always test brakes when first starting downhill or after driving through deep water.
A soft or spongy brake pedal is a serious warning sign. Common causes include: air in the brake lines (often from a brake fluid leak), low or contaminated brake fluid, a failing master cylinder, or worn brake pads that have allowed the caliper pistons to extend too far. Any of these conditions can lead to total brake failure with little warning. Do not continue driving. Pull over safely, do not restart the vehicle, and call for assistance. This is a situation where professional repair is required before the vehicle is driven again.
Squealing or screeching during braking—indicates worn brake pads reaching their wear indicators.
Grinding noise—metal-on-metal contact; pads are fully worn and rotors are being damaged.
Vibration through the brake pedal or steering wheel when braking—can indicate warped rotors.
Vehicle pulling to one side when braking—suggests uneven brake pressure, often a stuck caliper.
Brake warning light on the dashboard—never ignore this; investigate immediately.
Burning smell after braking, especially on descents—overheated brakes or a stuck caliper.
Dramatically. Braking is entirely dependent on tires' ability to generate friction with the road surface. A tire with worn tread, incorrect pressure, or the wrong compound for the temperature will stop in a significantly longer distance than a properly maintained tire—even with identical brakes. On wet roads, the difference is extreme: properly maintained tires can stop in 30–40% shorter distances than worn ones. Modern ABS systems cannot compensate for inadequate tire-to-road grip—they work with the traction the tire can generate, not beyond it.
