When Do You Need an Inner Tube?
The function of an inner tube is to ensure that the tire and wheel assembly are sealed. To determine if you need an inner tube, start by checking whether your tire is Tube Type (TT) or Tubeless (TL)
How Do You Know If Your Tires Are TL or TT?
Tube Type Tires (TT)
Tube Type tires have a first layer of rubber on the inside that is not airtight. As a result, they require an inner tube to maintain pressure.
Tubeless Tires (TL)
Tubeless tires have an airtight first layer of rubber, so an inner tube is not required to ensure the seal.
However, there is one exception: if the rim is TT, an inner tube must still be used, even with Tubeless tires.
How Do You Know If Your Rims Are TL or TT?
1. Spoke Rims
Spoke rims typically have spokes that pierce the rim in the centre along the entire circumference. These holes mean the rim is not sealed, making it Tube Type (TT) and requiring an inner tube.
However, some spoke rims are designed differently, with spokes fixed in a way that maintains the seal. These are considered Tubeless (TL) rims and do not require an inner tube.
A Tube Type (TT) Rim
A Spoke Rim That Is Tubeless (TL)
Rim Band for Spoke rims
When spokes pierce the rim, the inside of the rim is not smooth. This can lead to overheating or even a puncture in the inner tube during riding. To prevent this, it’s recommended to use a rim band—a rubber accessory that covers the inner rim and protects the motorcycle inner tube or the Michelin Bib Mousse™ from the spoke heads.
2. Alloy Rims
An Alloy rim is always Tubeless (TL) because its structure does not compromise the seal.
In Summary
The following table presents the key points:
| Alloy rim | |
TT tire (Tube Type) | Inner tube* | Inner tube |
TL tire (Tubeless) | Inner tube* | No inner tube |
*We recommend using a rim band with Tube Type tires.
Important:
For an alloy rim with a Tubeless tire, we do not recommend fitting an inner tube. In the event of a puncture, the tire could flatten instantly, which could lead to rapid airloss.
Now you know if your tires need an inner tube. If they do, let's see how to choose the right one for your type of vehicle or use.
Inner Tubes for Road Motorcycles and Scooters
When choosing an inner tube for road use, follow these two steps:
Match the Tube to Your Tire Size
Begin by identifying your tire size to find the appropriate inner tube.Choose the Valve Type
For the same tire size, you may have the option to select between two types of valves:
Straight valve
Angled valve
How to Choose a Valve
The valve shape determines how easy it is to pressurize the tire. For example:
If access to the valve is difficult, such as when the braking system obstructs it, an angled valve may make it easier to inflate the tire compared to a straight valve.
Scooter Inner Tube (angled valve in this example)
Road Motorcycle Inner Tube (straight valve in this example)
Inner Tube for Off-Road Motorcycles
For off-road use, we offer two types of inner tubes:
Reinforced Inner Tube: Robust and durable.
Ultra-Heavy Duty (UHD) Inner Tube: Extra robust with 4 mm thickness for added resistance.
Choosing the Valve
For off-road inner tubes, the valve type is always straight, so there is no choice to make here.
Which Inner Tube Should You Choose?
If both options are available in your tire dimensions, the Ultra-Heavy Duty (UHD) inner tube offers superior resistance, making it the more secure choice.
Reinforced Inner Tube
Ultra-Heavy Duty Inner Tube (UHD)
The Michelin Bib Mousse™ Alternative
Since the Michelin Bib Mousse™ contains no air, it’s an excellent off-road option that eliminates the worry of punctures.
Recommendations
We recommend using a new rim tape and a new inner tube every time you install a new tire.
When to Change the Valve of a Tubeless Tire
Rubber Valve: Replace the valve at every tire change.
Metal Valve: Replace the valve seal at every tire change.
To obtain the accessories mentioned in this article, contact your dealer or a professional near you:
Find a professional near you
Search among our dealers to find where your tire is available
FAQ
Read our Frequently Asked Questions.
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It depends on your wheel type. Spoked (wire) wheels require tube-type (TT) tires with inner tubes, because the spoke holes in the rim cannot create an airtight seal for tubeless operation. Cast (alloy) wheels can and typically do use tubeless (TL) tires without an inner tube—the tire seals directly to the rim. Check your tire's sidewall marking: TL means tubeless (no tube required or recommended); TT means tube type (tube required). Using a TL tire without a tube on a spoked wheel is dangerous, as is fitting a tube inside a TL tire (generates heat, risks failure).
Size match: the tube dimensions must exactly match the tire size. A tube that's too large will fold and fail; too small will stretch and fail.
Valve type: match the valve to your rim type—straight or angled (90°) Schrader or Presta depending on the wheel.
Material: butyl rubber tubes are standard and adequate for most road use. Latex tubes are lighter and used in some performance applications but require more frequent pressure checks as they breathe more.
Brand: use a tube certified compatible with your tire size. Michelin specifies which inner tubes are appropriate for each of their tube-type tire sizes.
Replace with the tire: always install a new tube when replacing a tire—reusing an old tube in a new tire risks failure.
Some specialized rim liners and tubeless rim conversions are available for certain spoked wheel configurations, but this is a specialized modification that requires professional assessment. The conversion must seal all spoke nipple holes effectively, and the resulting assembly must be capable of maintaining pressure safely under riding conditions. Not all spoked wheels can be safely converted. If your bike came with tube-type tires on spoked wheels, the safest approach is to continue using tube-type tires unless you specifically consult a specialist about a conversion appropriate for your wheel design.
Repeated deflation without an obvious external puncture: may indicate a valve leak or tube damage.
Visible damage on inspection: any cut, hole, or patch failure.
Chafing marks: abrasion from riding with insufficient pressure causes marbling (white marks) on the inner tube.
Age: replace whenever you replace the tire—an old tube in a new tire is a hidden failure risk.
After any flat: if the tube was run even briefly at low pressure, internal damage may have occurred.
Tube-type tire failures tend to be more sudden than tubeless failures. When a tubeless tire is punctured by a nail, the nail often acts as a temporary plug and air loss is gradual—giving the rider time to notice and respond. When a tube-type tire is punctured, the tube can fail rapidly, causing quick deflation. Additionally, if a tube is pinched between the tire and rim (pinch flat, common on spoked wheels when hitting potholes), it fails instantly and completely. This is one reason why many modern motorcycles use tubeless tires on cast wheels—the progressive failure mode gives riders more recovery time.